BANANA PINSTRIPE BALL PYTHON FOR SALE

Description

BANANA PINSTRIPE BALL PYTHON FOR SALE

Each gorgeous pinstripe ball pythons for sale is a colorful animal. Our babies are bred for sale using male maker bananas.

The visual cross between the pinstripe and banana genes produced this amazing combo. We alternate them such that they will eat either live or frozen/thawed medium mice. Consider checking out some of our other banana combinations as well.

Their Care 
They require no more maintenance than any other variety of ball python. It is advised to use a small to medium-sized glass terrarium. For baby ball pythons, heat pads only should be utilized; heat bulbs should be avoided.

It also needs a little hide space, some aspen bedding, a small water dish, and a digital reptile thermometer. After your snake has acclimated to its new surroundings, which may take up to 48 hours, you can feed it. We suggest giving baby ball pythons a small to medium mouse for their first few meals.

Ball python or Royal python are two common names for the same snake.

The scientific name for this species is Python regius.

This species’ natural habitats are in Western and Central Africa.

Lifespan: If given the right care, they can live for 20 to 40 years.

Size: They are between three and six feet tall. The girth of females is noticeably larger than that of males.

Expert Level: Appropriate for novices of all ages.

Ball pythons are typically shy while they are young, but as they become older, they will start to engage with people and show more curiosity.

Handling: To help your Ball Python get used to human interaction, keep handling it frequently.

TO CARE FOR YOUR NEW BALL PYTHON(S), YOU WILL REQUIRE THE FOLLOWING:

Enclosure:

Many methods can be used to maintain a Ball python. The most popular way is to keep your baby Ball python in a terrarium that holds 15 to 20 gallons. A rack system is something you should buy if you want to start breeding. The best method for maintaining medium to big collections of Ball pythons is to use rack systems, which can exchange heat by connecting Flexwatt heat tape.

We believe that a less than 25-gallon container will provide a safer environment for baby Ball pythons. Then you can increase the enclosure’s size as your Ball Python grows. ***
It’s pretty amazing what you can do for your Ball Python by creating a Bioactive Vivarium, which includes creating a natural living habitat with plants, substrate, and living organisms that operate as a cleanup crew in the enclosure.

Multiple Ball Pythons at One Place:

Living together with your Ball Pythons is not recommended. Although some individuals are able to live with their snakes, it is not a perfect arrangement. If ball pythons are not given the necessary care, they may experience stress or harm. Two snakes should only be kept together when they are reproducing.

Dish with Water:

Your Ball python needs water, so make sure it’s always available in their enclosure. Take care not to provide distilled water to your reptile. We suggest using spring water in a bottle if you’re unsure if the water from your faucet is safe. You can also get the item that follows: “ReptiSafe® water conditioner, which is wonderful for water bowls and eliminates chloramines and chlorine, detoxifies ammonia and nitrites, and offers vital ions and electrolytes to assist hydrate freshly acquired animals.”

Substrate:

Cedar or sand are not good choices for a substrate. Safe options include Reptile Prime, Repti Bark, and Newspaper/Paper Towel.

Hides:

One hide on the heated side and one on the chilly side is what you should have. Your Ball Python will be able to keep its body temperature at a comfortable level if it has hides on both sides.
I’m thrilled to hear that our Reptile Prime substrate is being well-received, and I firmly believe it to be among the best available for Ball pythons.

Please go to ReptilePrime.com to make a purchase if you’re interested in doing so. The material is also accessible on Amazon Prime. Although they can’t buy anything on the website, Canadian customers can still use Amazon Prime to buy products.

Humidity:

An enclosure housing a ball python should have an average humidity level of about 60%. For babies, a little extra height is sometimes needed. If your Ball Python is struggling with shedding, I suggest turning up the humidity a little bit. Using a larger water dish and misting bedding with a spray bottle are two easy ways to increase humidity.

Add live plants, a waterfall feature inside the enclosure, a humidifier in the same room, and cover the screen top with a cloth. Remember that it could be challenging to maintain a high level of humidity if you live somewhere that gets cold and dry in the winter. Go to the shedding area if you need assistance with a stuck shed and try to maintain it as near to 60% as you can.

Hygrometer:

It never ceases to amaze me how many reptile keepers choose not to purchase this essential item. For a relatively small amount of money, you may monitor the humidity in your reptile’s habitat with a hygrometer.

Ball pythons shed their skin

Throughout their lifespan, they will shed their skin multiple times. As they age, ball pythons shed more regularly. When your Ball python’s eyes turn blue and its scales become dull, it’s pre-ecdysis and time to shed. Your Ball python’s refusal to eat during this period is quite normal.

If you want to help your Ball Python shed entirely, you can raise the humidity a little bit. The process by which your Ball python sheds its skin is called ecdysis. When you are holding your ball python, it will start to rub its little faces on the terrarium, the rocks, and even you. You should have a beautiful completed shed if the humidity is appropriate and your python isn’t shedding.

Shedding Problems:

Make sure there is enough humidity in your Ball python’s habitat if it has shed. An effective way to deal with a jammed shed is to use a Rubbermaid or Sterilite container with holes. The first approach involves submerging your Ball Python for half an inch in water that is slightly warmer than room temperature for 30 minutes. The second option is to soak a paper towel in warm water, wring off any extra, and place it inside a bathtub.

Let your baby walk about for 30 to 1 hour after that. After your Ball python has either soaked or slid around the paper towel, put on a rubber thumb to carefully remove the trapped shed. If you are not able to remove an eye cap or a shed section that seems to be restricting, please contact a local veterinarian or breeder for expert assistance.
Scale Rot: Your Ball Python may have scale rot if it breaks out in blisters or develops a rash.

Rot of the scales

The most frequent reason behind scale rot is too wetness. Your Ball python should first be kept in a completely dry habitat. Since you can just replace the substrate to keep the cage dry, we advise using paper towels. After a day or two, replenish their habitat with a water dish. Please replenish the water dish if, upon reentering the enclosure, you notice that it has spilled over the paper towel. Make sure to wipe up any urine or feces your snake has produced right away. When the time comes, take your snake to the vet so that an antibiotic treatment can start.

Source of heat:

Heat mats (undertank or side) can be heated with heat tape, ceramic heat emitters, or basking lights. UVB light is not required for use. Keeping a single Ball python is made easiest and most effective with an undertank heating pad or basking light. It is just a product that can be bought online. In a rack setup, Flexwatt heat tape is a great option for larger groups. You can purchase this in a hardware store or online. It is not advisable to use heat rocks in a ball python’s enclosure as they could burn the snake.

 

Temperature:

As raising the temperature above 93 degrees Fahrenheit may cause your Ball python to lose weight, the ideal temperature range for the hot side should be 85 to 91 degrees Fahrenheit. It should be about 80 degrees Fahrenheit on the cool side.

Thermometer:

To make sure that the temperatures in your Ball Python’s enclosure are appropriate, we think that buying at least one is a MUST. To measure the temperatures on both the hot and cold sides, we advise obtaining two. On the market, there are a lot of substitutes. Seek for the best deals by taking a look around. There is also a digital infrared thermometer that provides an instantaneous temperature reading.

Feeding:

We start all of our baby Ball pythons on live little adult mice once a week. Once they’ve established a consistent eating routine, we start giving them frozen or thawed food. Whatever is more convenient for you, you can either freeze or thaw your ball python instead of keeping it alive. Please remember that feeding live mice to your Ball Python requires supervision since they could injure the animal. The largest body part of the prey and the largest body part of the prey should have the same size.

You have the freedom to switch your baby’s diet to rats at any time. Normally, we don’t feed our babies until they are consuming medium- or large-sized adult mice. Find a local breeder who sells rodents in your neighborhood if you’re feeding live rats. If you feed frozen mice and/or rats, several online sellers will deliver large quantities of mice and/or rats right to your door. You can either put a frozen rodent in warm water or leave it on your counter overnight to thaw it out. HEATING RODENTS IN A MICROWAVE IS NOT A GOOD IDEA. After it has eaten, don’t store your Ball Python for longer than 24 to 48 hours.

Problems with Feeding:

Given their reputation for being picky eaters, you shouldn’t assume anything is wrong with you if your pet won’t eat. Because the egg has filled them up, a young Ball python that has never eaten may refuse to eat for a few weeks. You might have to assist your kid with feeding if he continues to resist food. If you are new to helping feed, please enlist the assistance of an expert. You should never force your ball python to eat.

Your Ball python may need some time to acclimate to their new environment if you have a newborn that is refusing to feed, even when the breeder or vendor states the animal has already eaten a few meals. Make sure your humidity and temperature readings are accurate as well. Here are some additional guidelines:

Considerations include alternating between mice and rats, feeding in the evening or shortly before bed, feeding in a separate, smaller feeding box, gradually thawing a frozen rodent in warm water, and trying a smaller rodent. Remember that in order to maintain a strong feeding response in your Ball python, you should space out your offerings by 1-2 weeks if your baby won’t eat.
It has been seen that certain keepers scent the mouse, offer a different hue, and brain a frozen or thawed mouse. Though I’m not aware of many keepers who have been successful using those strategies, it’s always worth a try.

Regurgitation:

Ball pythons are very vulnerable to regurgitation. For whatever reason, if your Ball Python regurgitates, give it a break for 1.5 weeks before feeding it again. After that, serve smaller portions for a month until you introduce a regular meal. If your Ball python regurgitates twice, please consult a veterinarian.

Respiratory Infections (R.Is) are infections that affect the lungs.

Take your baby to the vet for a diagnosis and antibiotic therapy if it exhibits symptoms of a respiratory illness. You will heal more quickly if you visit a veterinarian as soon as possible. Adjust the enclosure as follows: maintain a hot setting of 92°F and a relative humidity of around 90%.

A warm, muggy atmosphere will facilitate the healing process. Nebulizing your snakes with F10 veterinary disinfectant has been demonstrated to be beneficial for minor RI. I would only advise doing this in addition to having a veterinarian evaluate your python. Ask your veterinarian if they think you should temporarily stop feeding your Ball python if they have a severe respiratory infection.

Preventing Mites:

Make sure the reptile you’re introducing into your home or collection is kept apart from other reptiles. Prevent-A-Mite is a product that you may spray into their enclosure, and it will do wonders.

Symptoms of a mite infestation include:

If your baby spends a lot of time in their water dish and you notice black particles floating in the water, you might have a snake with mites. Additionally, you can look for any elevated scales on their scales that could be mite hiding places.

Treatment for Mites:

Should you find out that your baby has mites, bathe it in warm water with a depth of around one inch. While your Ball python is swimming, thoroughly clean its enclosure. In my opinion, I would purchase a stand-alone tub or terrarium—such as a Rubbermaid or Sterlite container—and apply Prevent-A-Mite to it.

Before adding any substrate to the enclosure other than paper towels, let it air dry entirely. After a day or two, replace the water dish within the enclosure. You will need to continue bathing your Ball python, cleaning your enclosure, and applying Prevent-A-Mite for approximately one month.

100% live arrival guarantee

We guarantee 100% live arrival of every animal we sell. Additionally, we promise that the sex of the animal matches the information provided at the time of purchase. However, the live arrival promise is null and void in a few specific circumstances.

However, the live arrival promise is null and void in a few specific circumstances. These situations consist of the following:

1. The buyer or a household member must be present to sign for the package on the first delivery attempt (COURIER provides a time of delivery stamp).

2. A shipping hold-up brought on by a negligent carrier.

3. The hub or destination’s temperature falling below 32°F or rising above 99°F.

4. On the day of arrival, customers are required to pick up animals that are held for pickup at a COURIER facility. (A picture ID that corresponds to the shipping name must be submitted.)

5. During checkout, a wrong delivery address was entered, which caused a shipping delay and reroute.

6. All Live Arrival Guarantee requests must be made within 30 minutes of the product being dropped off by COURIER or within 30 minutes of the box being picked up at Hub if the Hold For Pickup option was used.

Please note that the Live Arrival Guarantee does not apply to isopods shipped at temperatures higher than 85°F.

In the unlikely event that your pet passes away while in transit, you, the buyer, agree to notify us as soon as possible after receiving the shipment and to submit a picture of the deceased animal on its back. This needs to be submitted within thirty minutes of the delivery time stamp.

The live arrival guarantee is only good while the animal is being shipped; after that, it becomes void.

The live arrival guarantee will only cover the animal’s purchase; shipping expenses are not reimbursed. The cost of sending replacement animals is borne by the customer. The green-footed tortoise

After the animal has been examined and certified, the buyer is the only one who is in charge of its welfare. The buyer is responsible for the animal’s are and maintenance; Ranch Of Exotic Breeds will not be held responsible for any veterinarian bills incurred.